Sewing-machine.



PATENTED AUG. 28, 1906.

s. ARNOLD. SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIOATIUN FILED JULY 26, 1389.

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3513 1 51 61 I OCVIZQ witmeooeoi N0- 829,937. PATENTED AUG. 28, 1906.

s. ARNOLD.

.SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 25. 1889.

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N0- 829,937. PATENTED' AUG. 28, 1906. S. ARNOLD.

SEWING MACHINE;

APPLIOATION I IL1|D JULY 26. 1889.

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15 or plain work.

. T gl pnnr om-ea SATTERLEE ARNOLD, OFMORRISTOWN, NEW JERSEY, ASSIGNO'R-TO ANNA M. ARNODD, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Ang. as, 1906.

Application filed m 35, 1889. Serial a. 818,646.

. T all/107mm it nmw concern:

Be it known that I, SATTERLEE ARNOLD, a

citizenof the United States, residingat Morristown, in the county of Morris and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

My invention. relates to a sewing-machine more particularly intended for joining .the edges ofknit fabrics in the manufacture of stockings and other articles of underwear,

but adapted also for ornamental stitching The present invention has been made by me in connection withfmachines/such as shown in my, Patents Nos. 311,106, 311,107, and 378,645 and the invention will beillustrated and described in connection with such a machine, although it will be understood that the features forming the invention may be used also in machines ofother classes The improvements forming the present in z 5 yention relate more particularly to lthe feedmg and resser-foot mechanisms; to the mechanism for swin ing the needle laterally or across the line 0 the feed;- to means for guiding thework to a stitch-forming mech- 0 anism, means for resenting the work to astitch-forming mec anism in such a way as to form a fiat seam with a certain looseness of the sti'ches so that the seam will have any deslred degree of softness to the form of the 3 5 work-supqporting horn, and to means fortakmg up t e wear of the fulcrum-pivot of the looper-rod, all as will hereinafter more fully ap ear. Y

. I nthe drawmgs, Figures 1 and 2 are 0 posite side elevations, partly broken out, o my improved machine. Fig. 3 is a top view, and Fig. 4 a front end view, of thesame. Figs.'5, 6, and, 7 are detail -views of the preSser-foot.

Fig. 8 is a'detail plan view of the forward end 5" of the work-supporting arm or horn, showing view of the feeding-fOOt.

the throat-plate and divider or separator. Fig. 9 is a cross-section throughthe arm or horn online 99, Fig. 1, with the top plate of said arm or horn omitted. Fig. 10 is a plan Figs. 11, 12, 1-3, and 13 are detail views of the throatlate. Fig. 14 is a detail view of the vertical divider or se arator and guide. Fi 15 is an enlarge section of the throat-pl a't e and tongue of the divider, illustrating the latter; and Figs. 16; 17, and 18 are dia-x grams illustrating different seams.

A denotes the bracket-arm of the machine, to the rear portion of which is j ournaled the vertical driving-shaft B, having at is lower end a crank-diskb, connected by a link I) with the u per crank 'b? of the vertical hook-rod shaft B arranged out of line with the shaft B,

the operation of' so asto receive a variablerotary movement from the latter, and having at its lower end the crank 6 connected with the loo'per-rod C, provided at its forward end Withthe looper c to carry the needle-thread. around the stationary shuttle c. The primary and secondary needle banoperating levers a a, which are connected together and to the needle-bar a bylinks a are operated from the eccentric a on the shaft B through the pitman a The needle-bar is reciprocated vertically in a horizontally-swinging' frame E, pivoted on-ce'nshaft B is provided. witha driving-pulley B? and witha Worm B meshing with a wormwheel D, secured to a. shaft D, journaled in bearings in a bracket A, attached to the armA.

The parts 'thus far described are or may be substantially the same as in my patents hereinbefore referred to, but in which the swinging movements of the needle-bar frame to move the needles laterally or horizontally,

The arm e is provided with a curvedslot e,

in which the stud e connecting the link e with said arm, is adjustably secured, and the amount of throw given to the swinging nee- IOO dle-barframe may'be varied at pleasure withadj ustout changing itscentral position biyr cm the 'ing said stud nearer to or farther rock-shaft in the said curved slot, the setnut e 'oii'the said stud having an arm a for 'To provide for adjustment of the position convenience of readyadjustment of the stud.

7 S- ter screwsa in the bracket-arm A. The

of the swinging needle-bar frame E laterally without changing its throw, the said swinging frame has an adjustable connection with the link 0, formed in the present instance by the bolt 0, having a hole through its head to receive the screw stud or bolt a", passing through the end of a link c nearest said frame, the shank of said bolt e" passing through a lug or projection c on the said frame and being threaded for the reception of the jam nuts 0, the positions of which may be changed to vary the lateral position of the said swinging needle-bar frame. The bolts or studs at the opposite ends of the link 0 have universal-joint connections therewith to prevent the connected parts vibrating in diflerent planes from binding.

The feeding of the work is effected by an up er step-feed or feeding-footf, carried by a eed-bar F, pivoted near its top on the screw f, passing through the slot 1' said feed-bar having a lug or projectionf for the en agement of a lifting earn-lever).

n lntroducing the work beneath the feeding-foot it is desirable that the said foot be held about the'thickness of the fabric above the work-plate, so that when one piece of fabric is adjusted beneath the feeding-footit will be frictionally held by'thc latter, while the operator is free to use both hands to adjust t is other piece of fabric and to start the sewing, the two ieces of fabric. in making the seams for whie1 my improved machine is more particularly intended being laid flatwise edge to edge on the work-plate. To hold the feeding-foot in any position of vertical adjustment, Iprovide one ormore spring- Washers f, placed against the said liftinglever f beneath the head of the screwf, on which said lever is pivoted, the frictional contact between said washer or washers and said lever and screw-head serving to retain the said lever in any osition to which it may be moved in lifting t 1e feeding-foot.

The feed-bar F is connected near its lower end by'a link 9 to the vertical arm 9 of a bell crank feed-operating lever, the longer horizontal or regulating arm 9 of which is slotted for the reception of an adjustable stud g on the lower end of a link 9 which is attached at its upper end to an arm h of a rock-shaft or rocker H, made in the present instance in the form of a sleeve surrounding the feed-barlifting shaft I which is journaled in bearings in the brackets a ,said rock-shaft H having a second arm h, provided with a roller-stud entering the cam-groove d in the forward face of the camwheel D on the shaft D,

which latter, as it carries the cam-wheel D which operates the feed, may be termed the feeding-shaft. The feed-bar-lifting rockshaft I-has at its forward end an arm ato engage an adjustable screw f tap 'ed in the lug f on the feed-bar-F, said sha t I having at its rear end a second arm 'L, bearing a on its inner end a nut provided with a lever or handle 9'', by which it may be easily loosened or tightened. I

The feed ing-foot f is yieldingly pressed upon the work by a springf, attached at its upper end to an arm f, secured to the feedbar by a screw said spring f being attached at its lower end to the bell-crank lever or other suitable relatively stationary part, and its tension may be adjusted by loosening the screwf" and then raising or lowering the outer end of the arm (which turns on the screwy as a pivot) and then again tighten ing said screw. In this way the pressure of the feeding-foot on the work maybe varied for different kinds of work or thicknesses of fabric. The adjustable screw f, against whichthe arm i of the rock-shaft I impinges, also permits the vertical throw or lift of the, feed-bar (and, which occurs when the return or non-feeding horizontal movement of the said bar is to take lace) to be varied for, work of different thic nesscs. i i J is the resser-foot, having an opening for the reception of the fecding-foot f and being carried by a spiral spring foot; but in sewing knit fabrics on myim resser-bar K, surrounded by a c h which holds down the presser- IOO proved machine it is not desirable that the; full pressure of the resser-foot should be received by the work; ut', on the contrary, it is better that the presser-foot should be held a distance above the work-plate about equal to the thickness of the fabric when the latter is slightly compressed, and the resser-foot when thus supported at an interval above the work-plate serves with the latter as an uncurling device-to smooth out the curled edges of the knit goods, so that they can be accurately presented to the stitch-forming mechanism. To this end the presser-bar K is provided with a stop to engage some part above the worklate, and thus hold the said prcsser-foot slig tly above the latter. In the present instance this presser-foot stop is secured by providing the presser-bar at its upper end with an arm k, through which is. tapped a screw k forming a projection. to engage a lifting-arm m on the forward end of the resser-foot, lifting rock-shaft M, the latter eing journaled in the brackets 07' and having at itsrear end a second arm m, provided with a roller stud or truck entering the cam-groove (Z in therea'r face of the'wheel D. The rock-shaft M is moved at the proper intervals to cause'its arm 'mtolift the presserfoot entirely clear of the work when the movements of the feeding-foot f occur, the

i which the said screw abuts to 'presser-foot' slightly above the work-plate said arms at other times serving (in connec tion with the said screw W) as a sto against old the or the purpose above stated. For convenience of ad ustment the screw lc isprovided with a small crank-handle 17c, by which it ma be turned, and it is held in any position desired by-the set-nut k From the foregoing it will be apparent that the lateral movements of the needle-bar, the

back and forth and lifting movements of the feeding-foot, and the lifting movements of the presser-foot, are all derived from the worm-wheel D: and worm B and b providwheels so geared that the worm-wheel will rotate once to each'four, six,'or any other desired number of revolutions of the Worm and of the main shaft, by which the latter is carried and which reciprocates the needle-bar vertically at each revolution, and also by varying the shapes of the cam-grooves in the said interchangeable worm-wheels D, and by provlding interchangeable feed operatlng wheels or disks D having cam-grooves of different shapes in their opposite sides, I am enabled-to form a great varietyof stitches adapted for ornainenting fabrics or for unitingtheedges thereof. Thus if it be desired to sew what may be termed a gathering-tie or Egyptian stitch-seam, as represented in Fig. 16, to join by a flat scam the meeting edges of two pieces of fabric lying in the same horizontal plane the needle is first caused to descend on.one sideof the meeting edges, and then, without feeding the work,

the needle is moved laterally straight across said edges and forms a stitch on the other side thereof, and then, withoutswinging the needle laterally, thework is fed the length of a stitch, so that the needle forms another stitchon the sameside of the edges as the last stitch, and at the next stitch the feed rests and the needle swings laterally straight across the edges and' descends through the fabric on thefirst side of said ed es, the epcration continuing in this way, t e swingmg or lateral movements of the needle and the feeding movement's being intermitted with each other, or being made at alternatestitches,to form the seam referred to.

With a leek-stitch seam made by single upper and lower threads the seam is alike so far as the arrangement of the two threads is concerned on both sides of thework, and as with my stationary shuttle I can use'a soft or loosely-twisted lower thread or 'yarn which will form a soft seam I am enabled with my imroved machine to unite the edges of stock- 1ngs and other knit goods b a soft fiat seam having the appearance an being in all respects fully equal to'the hand-made seams heretofore almost universally employed in worman of the better classes of hosiery, and par ticularly with all fine goods. Thus in making the gathering-tie or- Egyptian seam above described with the stitches close ogether in the direction of the length of t e seam and with a rather large soft yarn in the shuttle the seam has the a earance on the shuttle side of the work (w 10b is the fair or outside when the work is finished) represented by Fig. 17, the threads crossing the meeting edges-at rightangles thereto, or approximately so, thus simulatin the appearance of handwork, and as eac crossing stitch has a double grip or a hold at two points in the fabric, afforded by the straight-ahead or gathering rip or tie-stitches between the crossing stitc es, the seam is really stronger than, the hand-seam. To secure sufficient looseness to prevent the seams of closelyplaced stitches from bein hard or puckered, the adjacent edges of the abrics may be held slightly separated when sewing, 'or the nee-' holdin finger to prevent the stitches fromv being rawn too tight by the pull of the takeup, or both of these devices (to be fully described presently) may be employed.

In addition to the seam above described it i will be obvious that many other ornamental and useful seams may be formed on my improved machine by, varying the shapes of the 5 cams from which the feed ing-foot and swinging needle-bar frame are operated or by disconnecting the said frame from its operating rock-shaft. Thus by giving the needlebar frame and needle-bar a regular back- 100 and forth swinging a movement at each i stitch and by giving the feed a re ular movement so as to feed at each stitc an ordinary zigzagbr herring-bone-stitch seam (see Fig. 18) may be formed, and by disconr necting the link e from the needle-bar frame and using aregular feed a plain straightahead-stitch seam will'be produced. With the needle-bar frame disconnected from its 0 crating rock-shaft and the feed operated tono give the work alternate long forward and short backward movements a back-stitch A sea such as is described in my Patent No.

37 ,644, February 28, 188 8willbe the result, and by different combinations of the ng feed and swinging needle what are known as the vine or crossing stitch and many other ornamental stitch-seams may be made.

The looper-rod O, operated from the variably-rotating shaft B (to give a rapid move- 1 2o 'mentto the looper a when the latter is taking I the needle-thread and a slower movement at other times, asdescribed in my Patents Nos. 331 ,106 and 331,107,. 'hereinbefore men-:

tioned) is in, the present instance'provided 'r z 5 the hollow work-supportingarm. or horn At,- 130' dle-thread may belaid over a small stitch a check-nut c on the threaded shank of said stud serving to hold the latter securely in any position to which it may be adjusted by a screw-driver inserte l in the slot or nick at the upper end of sai shank. In operation the looper-rod has an endwise or longitudinal movement and a lateral 'or swinging move- I ment, the latter movement being provided The take-up which I prefer to use-consists of the oppositely-operating and connected take-u levers N, receiving their movements from t 1e grooved cani'B in the crank-disk b on the shaft B through the rocker N, having a roller-stud n, entering the groove of said cam and a pitman L, connecting said rocker with said take-up levers. The presser-foot J extends in front of the needle and is provided with an o 'ening to receive the feed-' ing-foot f, the atter being preferably pro-' vided with two narrow wings 0, extending in frontof the needle (when the feeding-foot is in a forward position toward the operatoror the front end of the machine) into the notches or recesses y" in the presser-foot, the latter having also the notches 7' to receive the needle in its different lateral positions. The

feeding-foot has a solid rear or heel portion bearing on the work rearward of the needle :hole or slot in the throat-plate, and thus, in cooperation with the presser-f0ot, said feeding-foot will prevent the work fr om being thrust down into said hole or slot by the needle, a difficulty occurring more or less with the wheel-feed machine shown by my Patent N 0. 331,106 and resulting in more or less roughness of scam. As hereinbefore' described, the Presser-foot is supported so as to be slightly above the work-plate, so thatjit will have but a slight frictional contact with the work, and it thus servesas part of a smoothing or uncurling device to smooth out the edges of knitted fabrics, and to perform its function properly in this respect its front end is cut out to form a U or V shaped or tapering opening or recess the apex of which obtuse angles, so that the lower or scraping isrearward toward the needle, the walls of vsaidrecess being preferably beveled slightly; as shown 'in the detail views Figs. 6 and7, at

. edges will prevent any curled fabrics from passing beneath'the presser-foot until pressed gut in a smooth condition.

.witha U or V'shapcd or tapering opening or recess in front of the needle and also preferabl'y having beveled rear walls, as shown in P is the throatplate, which is also provided Fig. 13, to cooperate with the slightly-lifted resser-foot in uncurling the fabrics. These )eveled rear walls make scra ing ed es at their up er corners p to uncur the kmt fabrics. Tiiis scraping action would measurably be ell'ected if the said rear walls were vertical instead of beveled if the corners -were square. The throat-plate is provide with'a rearwarrlly-pointing tongue 1), at the sides of which are the notches 7), into which the needle descends-and rearward of which is an opening 7) to permit the stitches laid over said tongue to esca e therefrom. At the rear of said opening t is upper surface of said plate is beveled or chamfered, as shown at 19', Figs. 11 and 12, to permit the rather loose:

stitches on the lower side of the work to ride up easily without catching. The opening 1) is inclosed by leaving the throat-plate rearward thereof intact, so as to form. a bearingsurface, which is level or even with the rest of the top of the said plate immediately rearward olsaid opening, said bearing-surface receiving the pressure of the feeding-foot, so that the work will beheld at all times se-' curely and accurately. i

The throat-plate is removably attached to the work-plate, (in the present instance by the ecr-rentric-headed screw T, which holds the flanged or undercut throat-plate in a recess in the work-plate,) so thatinterchangeable throat-plateshaving tongues of different widths to accommodate diflerent lateral throws of the swinging needle may be employed, the lateral throws of the needle being necessarily greater with heavier fabrics than with the finer or lighter ones.

- The throat-plate P ispreferably provided on its under side with a cross-bar p which is below the tongue 7), between the points where the needle descendsand the rear end of the said tongue, or, if the tongue be rather short,

* as shown in Fig. 13, (which is a bottom view of a throat-plate having a V-shaped rearwardly-tapering opening or recess,) said cross-bar is about even with the end of said tongue, and as the latter is thinner than the body of the throat-plate (see Fig. 12) there is su'l'licient space for the thread or stitches ,to pass between the lower side of said tongue and the upper side of said bar. The pur ose of the bar 7) is to hold the lower or bo bin: thread in the right position, so that when forming seams, as shown in Figs. 16 and 17, the cross or cable-laid stitches will be placed with evenness and regularity ,on the under (or fair) side of the wor My improved machine is more especially intended for uniting two fabric edges placed ilatwisc or edge to edge, although it may obviousIybe used for covering seams or for various other purposes, and to even and guide the fabric edges properly to the needle I employ a vertically-placed guiding divider or separator R, arranged in front of the presseror close together) that the fabric edges should be slightly separated at the sewingpoint to leave a slight interval or space between said edges'when united to provide for shrinkage in scouring or when the fabrics are washed after being sewed otherwise they' are liable to pucker or the seams will be hard,

and this separation of the fabrics at the sewing-point is secured'by the guiding and separating tongue r, which is preferably s uare or rectangular in cross-section, or at' east 1t must have vertical sides to guide the fabric edges and hold them separated.

The enlarged sectional diagram, Fig. 15,

taken on line l5,' Fig. 8, illustrates the op-.

eration of the separator, s denoting sections of fabric in contact with the vertical sides of the separating-tongue 1', and dotted lines t denoting. the planes of the descent of the needle on the .opposite sides of' the tongue p of the throat-plate P, the dotted lines above the tongue?" denoting the part of the guiding divider or separator R which comes in front of denoted by the dotted lines in Figs; 6 and 7;

1 against the guidingidiyider or separator and adjusted beneath the forward end ofcthe the said tongue. Instead of making the tongue 1 a part of the vertical divider or separator it may be a part of the presser-foot, as

but when a part of the guiding divider or separator it will extend beneath the forward end of "the presser-foot/ 'The guiding divider or separator is preferably removable from its operative position to provide for easy removal orinsertion of the work and is shown in the present instance as being pivotedonits attaching-screw 7 so that it maybe turned down out of the way to the osition shown in dotted lines in Fig. 1 when esiredl The; hollow work-supporting arm or horn; A is truncated at its forward end or has rounded corners with a straight part between them. As the feeding or stitch form:

ing and feeding devices are arranged close to the end of this arm or horn and as the feeding device or foot is arranged to move lengthwise of the latter-to feed the work longitudie nally thereof, the machine is particularly adapted for sewing the angular seams in the heel portions of stockings and also the toe portions thereof, as .well asiorsewiiig mitts,

- gloves, orother tubular articles, particularly where flat, neat, and fine seams with stitches close to the edges tobe unitedare required.

In the operation'of my machine in sewing fiat seams the fabric edges are abutted 'presser and feeding feet? The machine 1s then startedrand the n'ee'dle, which'reciprocates or moveshorizontally or laterally cross wise of the arm or horn above the latter, as will be apparent, descends first into one part of the fa ric and then into the other, crossing and recrossing the edges in any desired order of the stitches as the work is moved gresses the edges thereof are smoothed out and pressed against the guiding divider or separator, which} in connection with the separating-tongue 7', guides them pro erly to the stitch-forming mechanism, while lioldsoftness of the seam. The tongue on the the seainare laid serves as a resistance to drawing the stitches so tight as to make the seam hard or .create a liability of puckering when the stitches are close together.

As stated above, the tongue 1' is preferably used in uniting knit fabrics edge to edge, particularly when the stitches are fine or close together, so, as to separate the fabric edges sufiiciently to secure a'soft seam, as described, and whenv the fabric edges are to be thus secured together and the tongue 1" used for separating the,mthe portion of the di- ,vider or se arator R which lies in front 'of -the needle ill preferably be of the same Width as that portion which extends 'acrogs and behind the path of the needle, so that the fabric edges when placed against the portion' of thedivider or separator in front of the needle will be separated to the same extent as in assing the needle and be guided in parallel ines'to, the latter. The width of the tongue 1 willobviously depend upon the distance which it is desired to separate the edges of the fabrics, and this width of the, tongue 1' when the latter is used will'preferably determine also the width of the portion tial. The tongue 1- is used when a soft seam is to be produced for the purpose of leaving the slight interval or space desirable for forming a softseam, and it is obvious that I mechanism, and whatever .be the position of these edges relatively to each other this guide will preferably be formed so as to sethe edges past the sewing-point in lines parillustrated in the drawings, for which pur pose this guide must obviously, be made 'asthin as possible 1 consistently -with,-the re throat-plate over which the two threads of upon the position-desired for the fabric edges 1 .cure' as nearly as possible the fmov'ement of allel to e achtother, as in the; construction.

a 7- along by the feed, and as the work thus pro--- ing them slightly apart to secure proper 1 the takez-up and'prevent's the latter from of the divider and separator in fronttof the needle, although this is not absolutely essen-' IIO the fabrics, correctly to the stitch-forming rgo , of the presser-foot.

quired rigidity and the proper positioning of the edges. If this guide be used in unit ing two ieces of fabric, the opposite edges will be rought up on opposite sides and abutted with the guide between them, and

thus passed to the stitch-forming mechan ism. The length of the guiding divider or separator in front of the stitch-forming mechanism may be varied, and the length preferred will depend. somewhat upon the length The greater the length of the divider'or separator the more efficient is its guiding action, and for the best results it should extend from approximately the front edgeof the presser-foot to the stitchline, so that the work may be )ositioned by the forward end of this guide before the work is subjected fully to the pressure of the prsser-foot and then be guided and held against sidewise deflection until the sewing is effected. In any case the guiding divider or separator must be of-sufficient length to hold the work against sidewise deflection as it 'moves to the needle, and for this urpose its dimension in front of the needfe must be greater longitudinally of the seam than transversely thereto.

I claim 1. In a sewing-umchine, the combination with a hollow work-supporting arm or horn, ofa throat-plate having a needle-hole, a feed ing-foot arranged above the said arm or horn and movable longitudinally thereof, said feeding-foot having a heel portion bearing on the work rearward of the said needle-hole, operating mechanism for said feeding-foot, a (:0- operating resser-foot, and a stitch-forming mechanism comprising a needle movable horizontally crosswise of said horn above the lat-- zontally crosswise of said horn, above the latter, and complementary stitch-forming devices within said horn. l

2. In a sewingmachine', the combination with a hollow work-supporting horn or arm, of a throat-plate having a needle-hole, a feed ing-foot arranged above the said arm or horn and movable longitudinally thereof, said feeding-foot having a heel portion bearing on'the work rearward of the said needle-hole, operating mechanism for said feedingfoot, a (.0- operating presser-foot, and a stitch-forming mechanism comprising anecdle movable horiter, and a stationary shuttle and rotating looper both wit-hm said horn. I

3. Ina sewing-machine the combination with a hollow work-supporting horn, of a throat-plate having a needle-hole, a feedingfoot arranged above the said horn and movlever.

able longitudinally thereof, said feeding-foot having a solid heel portion to bear on the work rearward of said needle-hole, a swinging feed-bar by which said foot is carried, a cooperating presser-foot, .a stitch-forming mechanism comprising a needle movable lat- 7o erall y crosswise of said horn, above the latter, and complementary stitch-forming devices within said horn, a driving-shaft from which said stitch-forming mechanism is operated, a

feed-shaft geared to said driving-shaft, two 7 5 cams on said feedshaft, and connections between said cams and feed-bar whereby horizontal and vertical movements are imparted to the latter.

4. In a sewing-machine, the combinationwith the work-plate, of a feeding-foot a1 ranged above said work-plate, a swinging foed-bar by which said foot is carried, a driving-shaft, a needle-bar operated froni tlic said shaft, a feed-shaft geared to said drivingshaft, two cams on the said feed-shaft, two rock-shafts, operated by said cams,- and connections between said rock-shaftsand l'ecd' bar whereby the latter is operated.

5. In a sewingonachine, the combination with the feed-bar F, of the feed-operating bell-crank lever connected with said fced-bar and having a regulating-arm, the rotat ng cam-wheel I)", the feed-operating IOGk-Sllitft or rocker II having two arms, one engaging said cam-wheel, and a link 9 connected at one end to the other of said'arms and being at its opposite end adjnstahlyattached to the said regulating-arm of the said feed-operating 6. In a sewing-machine, the combination with a swinging feed-bar arranged above the work-plate, of a feed-operating rock-shaft or rocker and a feed-lifting rocloshaft both of which are operatively connected with said feed-bar, and rotating cams to operate said rock-shafts.

7. In a sewing-machine, the combination with a swinging feed-bar arranged above the work-plate, of a feed-operating rock-shaft or rocker havin two arms, a rotating cam bv which one 0 said arms ,is engaged, a bell crank feed-operating lever connected with said feed-bar and having a regulating-arm, a link connecting said regulating-arm with the II 5 other arm of said rock-shaft or rocker, a feedlifting rock-shaft having two arms the forward one of which engages said feed-bar, or a projection thereon, to lift said bar, and a rotating cam by which the other of said arms is engaged.

8. The combination with the fced-bar F having the lug f the adjustable screw f tapped in said lug, the feed-lifting rock-shaft 1 having the arms 11 and 'i, the former engagr 25 ing said screw, and the rotating cam by which said rock-shaft is operated.

9. The combination with the feed-bar F,

- and t 49 which is attached to the said'stud or bolt e and the threaded shank of which is provided is loosened, and the spring f 7 attached at its. upper end to said arm, and at its 'lower end to some relatively stationary part; whereby by raising or lowering the outer end of saidarm the tension of said spring may be varied.

10. In a sewing-machine, the combination with the bracket-arm thereof, of the swinging needle-bar frame E pivoted thereto, the needle-bar reciprocating vertically in said frame, the rock-shaft 6 having the arms .6 and a a grooved cam by which the said arm 6. is engaged, and a link connecting the said. arm 6 with the said swinging needle-bar frame.

11. The combination with the rock-shaft c provided with the arm e having the curved slot 6 of the swinging needle-bar frame, and the link e attached at one end to said needlebar frame and adj ustably secured at its other end to the said arm 6, whereb" the throw of said frame may be varied without changing its central position. I i

12. The combination with the rock-shaft 6 having the arm e, of the swinging needlebar frame, thelink e attached at one end to 0 said rock-shaft and adjustably connected at *its opposite endwith the said needle-bar frame, whereby the position of the latter may be adjusted-without changing its throw.

13. The combination with the rock-shaft 3 5 e having the arm e, of the swinging needlebar frame having the lug or-projection a, the link e attached at one end to'said arm and havin at its opposite end the'stud or bolt a",

he screw stud or bolt 6 the head of with the jam-nuts e, the positions of which, on said shank, may be varied, thereby forming an adjustable connection between the i 4 5 said link and needle-bar frame. I

1 1. In a sewing-machine, the combination with the presserfoot and. resser-bar and a spring for depressing the same said presser foot. having a projection, of thepre'sser-foot- I lifting rook-shaft Mhaving at its forward end the arm m arranged to be engaged by said projection and provided at its rear end with the arm m, and a cam toengage said arm m and thus impart a vertical movement to said w 5 5 presserbar-and foot.

15." Ina sewing-machine, the combination with the resser-bar having the arm k, the resser-foot, and'the screw 70 tapped through said arm, of the rock-shaft M having. the arm m arranged to be engaged by said screw -to -norma1ly hold the resser-foot slightly aboye the worksplate, an means for operating said to lift the presser foot higherrat' -rock-sha m tervals. 4

end may be raised or lowered when the screw 16. In a sewing-machine,.the combination with the resser-foot and presser-bar and a spring for depressing. the same, of a sto servingto hold said foot slightly above sai workplate during the stitching operation of the' able so that the space or interval between said foot and work-plate, may be varied.

7 i 18. In a sewing-machine, the combination with a resser-foot having at its forward end,

opening or recess, of a presser-bar by which said foot is carried, a spring for depressing said bar, a laterally-moving needle-bar and needle, a swinging frame in which said needlebar reciprocates vertically, and a stationary '9 overhanging bracket-arm at the forward end supported. a v 19. In a sewing-machine, a throat-plate having at its forward end in front of the needle a rearwardly-tapering opening or recess the walls of which have sharp corners to form scraping or uncurling edges. 20. .In a sewing-machineythe combination tapering opening or recess at its forward end in'front of the needle, and means for normally holding said presser-foot slightly above I ,th work-plate, of a throat or work plate also cess in front of the needle.

21. In-a sewing-machine, the combination with a presser-foot having a rearwardly-tapering opening or recess at its forward end, of 1 above the work-plate uring the stitching. operation of the machine. '2 i 22. In a sewing-machine, the combination with a presser-foohhaving a rearwardly-taa stop for holding said presser-foot slightly above the work-plate during the stitching. operation of the machine, said stop being tween" said be varied,

23. In a sewing-machine, the combination with. a hollow work-s11 porting arm or horn, of an upplerfeed or fee ing foot movable longitudina aheel or bearing porn )11 rearward of the nee: dle, a throat-plate having a needle-opening, a

horizontally movable needle reciprocating machine, said stop being vertically adjust 7o machine, said stop being'vertically adjus't- 8o A .in. front of the needle, a rearwardly-tapering 5 of which said swinging nee'dleba r frame is with a resser-foot having a rearwardly- 109' having a rearwardly-tapering opening or re- 1'05 A means for holding said resser-foot slightly Iro pering opening or recess at'its forward. end, of r 15 vertically adjustable so that the interval beresser-foot and work-plate may y of the saidarnr or horn and having 1 2'5 crosswise of the said arm or horn, above the latter, cooperating stltch-formmg devices tally or laterally moving needle-bar and nee-- dle, coo erating stitch-forming mechanism within the said arm or horn, and a presserfoot and throat-plate both having rearwardly- HZPQILDE cpenmgs or recesses in front of said needle.

25. In a sewing-1nachine, the combination with a laterally-movable needle, its, operat- -1ng mechanism and complementary stitch forming devices, of a foot and a stationary throat-plate having an inclosed opening and a horizontal tongue extending rearward past said needle in the line of the feed and on o posite sides of which said need e descends 11] working in its different vertical planes, said throat-plate having, immediately rearward of said openin a bearing-surface which is on a level with t 1e rest of the upper surface of the throatlate and which receives the pressure of sai foot.

26. In a sewing-machine, the combination witha laterally-movable needle-bar and needle and complementary stitch-forming devices, of a foot, and a throat-plate having a tongue extending past or rearward of the needle and on opposite sides of which said needle descends in working in" its different vertical planes, said throatlate having an inclosed opening rearward of said tongue to permit the stitches laid over the same to es cape therefrom, and being beveled. on its 1.: pper surface, as at p, rearward of said 0 ening, and the said plate having, immediate y rearward of said opening, a bearin -surface which is on a leve with the rest of t e top of the throatlate and which receives the \1IZ-S-' sure of sai foot.

27. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a laterally-movable needle, its operating mechanism and complementary sti tch-forming devices, ineludin a member pressing against the fabric, 0 a stationary throatplate having a ne'edle-openin and rearward of said opening a surface leve with the other top surface of the throat-plate and supporting said fabric against the pressure of said member, substantially as described.

28. In a sewing-machine, the combination with a laterall -rnoving needle-bar and needle and comp ernentary stitch-forrning devices, of a guiding divider 0r separatorarranged in front of said needle and having a tongue extending rearward past the said needle, and a throat-plate also having a tongue extending rearward past the needle, said throatplate tongue being beneath the said divider or separator tongue.

29. In a sewing-machine, the combination with the stitclnforming devices and a foot, of a throat-plate having a rearwardly-exteriding tongue with needle-openings on opposite sides thereof communicating with an inelosed opening rearward of said tong'ue,='said )late having, immediately rearward of the last-named opening, a bearing-surface which is even with the rest of the top of the throatplate and which receives the pressure of said foot.

30. In a sewing-machine, the combination with a laterally-moving needle-bar and needle and complementary stitch-forming devices, of a divider pivoted to the born or lower part of the machine in front of said needle. and being thus adapted to be turned down out of the way when desired. 31.- In a sewing-machine, the combination with a laterally-moving needle-bar and needle, complementary stitch-forming devices, and means for changing'the lateral move Inentsof said needle-bar and needle, of a foot, a stationary throat-plate having a tongue extending rearwardly past the said needle and, rearward of said tongue, an inclosed opening and. the said throat-plate having,

innnediately' rearward of said opening, .a bearing-surface on which said foot rests, the said plate being detachably'secured to the work-plate to permit of the use of interchangeable throat-plates having tongues of different widths, to correspond to d'rflerent lateral throws of the saidneedle-bar and needle.

32. A sewing-machine ha ing a member arranged to press against the fabric, and a stationary throat-plate provided with an inclosed opening and having a rearwardly-extending tongue projecting into said opening, said throat-plate having immediatelyrearward of said opening a surface level with the other top surface of the throat-plate and arranged to su port the fabric against the pres sure of said member, substantially as described. 33. In-a sewing-machine, a throat or work plate rigidly secured in place and having a tongue extending rearwardly past the needle and with an opening rearward of said tongue to permit the stitches laid over the same to escape therefrom, said throat-plate having on its under side below said tongue a crossbar rearward, of the needle-openings.

34. In a sewing-machine, the combination with a hollow work-supporting arm or horn having a truncated forward end with rounded corners, of a stitch-forming mechanism consisting of a vertically and laterally reciprocating needle-bar and needle above said horn and cooperating looping devices within said arm or horn andworking close to the forl ward or truncated end of the latter when engaging the needle-thread, a work-plate terminating at the forward endof said horn and an upper feeding-foot constructed to bear on the Work rearward of the needle-hole and workin lengthwise of said horn. A

. 35. a sewing-machine, the combination with a hollow work-supporting arm or horn having a truncated forward end with rounded corners, of an up er feeding-foot working longitudinally of said horn, a divider or separator and a presser-foot serving to hold and even two parts or edges of fabric placed edge to edge beneath the same. 36. In a s'ewingmachine, the combination with a needle-bar, needle and stationary shuttle, of a vibratin and longitudinally-reciprocating loo er-ro having side flanges, a guideblock emhraced by said flanges, a studv-on which said block is pivoted and Which-has a tapered or conical portion, and alooperf car-- ried by said rod. v

a 37. In a sewin -machine, the combination with a presseroot and a presser bar by which said foot is carried, of a rigid overhanging armwhich supports said presser-bar, a laterally-swinging needle-bar frame also supported at the forward end offlsaid rigid o arm, a needle-bar reciprocating verticallyin said frame, a needle carried by said bar, and a vertical divider or separator in front of sair needle and midway of its lateral movements.

38. In asewing-machine,'the combination i 3 5 with a throat-plate having a needle-hole, of a ri id overhanging arm, a presser-bar supported by said arm, a Presser-foot carried by said bar and having arearwardly-tapering openin -or recess central in front of said needleho e, a horizontally or laterally reciprocatin needle-bar-and needle also supported by sai rigid arm, a and complementary stitch-forming devices cooperatingwith said needle. 39. Ina sewing-machine, the combination with stitch-formmg mechanism adapted to laythreadstransversely to the edges offab' lies, of a guiding divideror separator extend-' ing in the line of the feed centrally ofthe stitches and i-n front of the sewing-point, and 5'0- of greater dimension infront, of, the sewing- .point longitudinally. of the seam than trans- '-v, ersely to the seam, substantially as de'-' scribed. i C 40.{In a sewing-machine, the combination with stitch-form ng mechanism adapted to s lay threads transversely tojthe edgesof fabding divider or separator extend- 111 the line of the feed centrally of the 'stl'tqhes and infront of the sewingoint, and 6o of greater dimension in front oft a sewingpoint longitudinally of the 'seam than transverselyto the seam and'formed with parallel sides in front of the sewing-point, substantially as desbribed. \r 4.1;. In a sewing-machine, thecombination with stitch forming' mechanism adapted to lay threads'transversely to the edges of a rise, of a guiding divider orse arator extending below the normal plane 0 the upper face of the fabrics and in front of the sewing-- point, and of greater dimension in front of, the sewing-point longitudinally of the seam than transversely to the seam, substantially as described. a

42. In a' sewih -machine, the combination with stitoh-form1ng mechanism adapted. to lay threads transversely to the edges of 'fabri cs, of a guiding divider or separator extending in the line of the feed centrally of the stitches and in front of the sewing-point, and of greater dimension in front of the sewing-1 point longitudinally of the seam than transversely to the seam, and uncurling devices above the Work for .smoothing out the edges offabrics to be united edge ,to edge, substantially. as described. I l

' 43. In a sewing-machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism adapted to lay threads transversely to the edges of fabrics, of aguiding divider or separator extending in the line ofthe feed centrally of the stitches, and in frontofthe sewing-point, and of greater dimension in front of the sewingpoint longitudinally of the seam than transversely to the seam, and upper and lower uncurling devices for smoothing out the edges bf fabrics to be united edge to edge, sulastantially as described. 11

44. In a sewingmachine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism adapted tn lay threads transversely to the edges of fab rics, and a resser-foot adapted to press upon the upper ace of the fabrics, of a guiding divider or separator extending below'the under face of the resser-foot and extending in the line of the eed centrally of the stitches and. in vfront of the sewing-point, and of greater dimension infront of the sewing-pointlongi-- the seam, substantially as described.

.45.. In a sewing-machine, the combination seam than transversely to t e seam, substan- I 3.0

tially as described. I

46. In a sewing-machine, the combination;

with stitch-forming mechanism adapted to lay threads transversely to the edges of fabrics and a resser-foot, of a guiding divider or 1 2 centrally of the stitches and substantially fromthefront edgeLof. the bearing surface of thglpresserfoot to the sewing-point; substamtia z y as described.

tudinally of the, seam than transversely to J witha laterally-moving. needle-bar and nee- 5" separator extending in the line of 'thefeed I 17. In a sewing-machine, the combination In testimonjy whereof I atfixfmyignature with stitch-forming mechanism adapted to in presence of two Witnesses.

lay threads transversely t0 and unite edges of fabrics, of a separator arranged to i 5 extend between the edges of two fabrics-t0 be I Witnesses;

united and separate said. edges at the sewing JAMES BonEN, point, substantially as described.; R. J. LUCKEY. 

